The material an upper is made from decides more about a shoe than the shape does—how long it lasts, how it handles rain, how much upkeep it demands, and how warm your foot gets in July. Before you fall for how a pair looks, it's worth knowing what you're actually signing up for. Here's the honest rundown of the big four.
Full-grain leather: the long game
The most durable everyday upper, and the only one that genuinely improves with age, developing a patina. It moulds to your foot, handles light weather when cared for, and can be resoled and kept for years. The cost: it needs conditioning, it's the priciest, and it's warmer and less breathable than knit in real heat. This is what you buy when you want the shoe to outlast the trend.
Suede and nubuck: looks great, needs babying
Suede has a soft, casual richness nothing else matches, and it's lighter and more breathable than smooth leather. But it stains, water-spots, and hates wet weather. With a protector spray and a brush it's very livable—just don't wear it in the rain and expect it to shrug off. Best for dry-weather loafers, desert boots, and anyone who'll actually maintain them.
Canvas: cheap, breezy, disposable-ish
Breathable, light, easy to wash, and inexpensive—canvas is summer's friend and the classic casual sneaker material. The tradeoffs: zero water resistance, offers little support, and it wears out and grubs up faster than leather. Great as a warm-weather knockabout you don't baby. Not the pair to spend big on.
Knit: comfort-first, modern
Engineered knit uppers are the sweet spot for comfort and breathability—sock-like, flexible, forgiving on wide feet, and light. Perfect for warm days, travel, and casual athletic wear. But knit gives little structure or support, soaks through in rain, and can be harder to clean deep in the weave. Some knits also stretch out over time. Comfort now, less longevity than leather.
Matching material to your life
- Want it to last years and don't mind upkeep: full-grain leather.
- Hot climate, lots of walking, low fuss: knit or canvas.
- Dry-weather style with a soft look: suede—if you'll protect it.
- One versatile do-everything pair: coated or full-grain leather wins on range.
The upkeep reality check
Be honest about whether you'll maintain a shoe. Leather and suede reward care and punish neglect; canvas and knit ask almost nothing but don't last as long. Buy the material that fits not just your outfits but your patience. Our collections list the upper material on every product so you know exactly what you're getting into.