Suede has a reputation for being high-maintenance, and honestly, it's half-deserved. Water spots it, dirt sinks in, and one wet commute can leave it looking sad. But most suede damage is preventable, and a lot of it is reversible with the right tools—none of which cost much.
The two tools you actually need
A suede brush (rubber or brass-bristle) and a suede eraser. That's the core kit. The brush lifts the nap and flicks out surface dirt; the eraser rubs out scuffs and greasy marks the way a pencil eraser lifts pencil. Skip the household sponges and stiff shoe brushes—they crush or bald the nap.
Routine cleaning
Let mud dry completely first. Wet suede smears; dry mud brushes off clean. Then brush in one direction to lift the nap and remove loose dirt. For flattened, shiny patches (usually the toe and heel where they rub), brush back and forth to raise the fibers again, then finish in one direction.
Scuffs and stubborn marks are the eraser's job. Rub firmly, brush away the crumbs, repeat. It's oddly satisfying and it works on most dry marks.
Water spots and rain
Counterintuitively, the fix for a water spot is more water—applied evenly. Lightly mist the whole panel so it dries uniformly instead of leaving a hard tide-line, stuff the shoe with paper to hold shape, and let it air dry away from heat. Once dry, brush the nap back up.
Grease and oil stains
These are the hard ones. Blot immediately (never rub—you'll spread it), then cover the mark in cornstarch or talc and leave it overnight to draw the oil out. Brush off in the morning. Bad grease stains may need a specialist suede degreaser, and some just don't fully come out. That's the tradeoff with suede.
Protect first, clean less
The smartest move happens before you ever wear them: a suede protector spray. Two light coats on fresh, clean suede, dried between coats, dramatically cuts how much water and dirt penetrate. Reapply every few weeks if you wear them often. It won't make suede bulletproof, but it turns a ruined-shoe rainstorm into a quick brush-off.
What not to do
Don't use water and soap like you would on leather. Don't put suede near direct heat to dry—it stiffens and shrinks. Don't wear suede in heavy rain or snow if you can help it; that's just picking a fight. Save the suede loafers and desert boots for dry days and they'll reward you.